Why I Work With Oil Perfumes vs Alcohol-Based Perfumes
It’s hard to believe, but it’s been almost a year since my last blog post. It’s crazy how time flies. First, it was a busy Christmas season and then for a long time I simply felt lacking in ideas as to what to write about. However, I have been recently asked why I chose to create oil perfumes vs alcohol-based perfumes, and I thought that that would be a great blog topic to make a comeback to blogging.
So how is a fragrance with an oil carrier different from a more conventional alcohol-based perfume? In my opinion, both are valid carriers and both have their application. That said, I chose to work with oil as the base for my fragrances, and here are my reasons.
The initial harshness
Alcohol-based perfumes are very harsh initially. We’ve all been in a perfume department and tested various fragrances, and the scent hits you right in the face after spritzing. The reason for that strong initial ‘hit and lift’ is that alcohol has a very high evaporation rate. That’s what gives the false impression that an alcohol-based fragrance is much stronger than it actually is – 10-15 times stronger, by some estimates. Oil perfumes, on the other hand, have a much slower evaporation rate, and the initial impression of a scent is more accurate. An oil perfume still unfolds over time like a flower, exposing more of the top notes first, then the middle notes, then finally the base notes. However, due to a more even and level evaporation rate, there is no initial harshness associated with them.

Oil perfumes evaporate at a slower rate and aren’t harsh on first contact.
The need for strong fixatives
The fast evaporation rate of alcohol-based perfumes is why they require strong fixatives, many of them synthetic and harmful. I’ve written before on the dangers of synthetic ingredients in fragrances and why natural botanical fragrances are much better for you. In short, synthetic fixatives cause migraines, allergies and disrupt hormone production. Since the evaporation rate of an oil base is much slower than that of alcohol, there is no need to use harsh chemical fixatives. Instead, the scent’s longevity can be prolonged by using natural fixatives, such as benzoin resin, myrrh or olibanum.
Additional skincare benefits
Using a neutral oil, such as jojoba or fractionated coconut oil, as the carrier for the fragrance provides additional perks. While you’re enjoying the scent itself, the luxurious oil base nourishes your http://nygoodhealth.com/product/caverta/ skin. You can rest assured that your skin is not absorbing any synthetic substances that are often toxic. Instead it’s just a little jojoba oil, good for your skin and the rest of your body.
The flammability issue
Aside from the actual quality difference between oil perfumes vs alcohol-based perfumes, there are also practical considerations. By their very nature, alcohol-based perfumes are highly flammable, which makes it nearly impossible to ship them abroad. In 2013 the Global Aviation Safety regulations were tightened, which included much stricter rules on shipping perfume. Since then, one of the major hurdles for perfumers have been figuring out how to mail it, particularly overseas. Choosing to work with alcohol-based perfumes would limit an independent natural perfumer to domestic shipping by ground only. In the UK even that requires a special ‘restricted goods’ sticker and the parcel needs to be inspected by a postal worker when handed over. That, however, does not apply to non-flammable perfumed creams, gels, oils or lotions, making oil perfumes much more attractive from that perspective.
Good things do come in small packages
Finally, another consideration is the bottle size. Alcohol-based perfumes are usually sold in larger bottles: more value for your money at first glance. In reality though, the concentration of the actual aromatic compounds in a conventional eau de cologne is only 2-6%, and typically 10% for eau de toilette and 15% for eau de parfum. Oil fragrances tend to be sold in a much smaller bottle, usually just 10-15 ml, but the concentration of aromatic compounds is typically at least 20% or higher.

A little goes a long way with oil perfumes.
Application
Natural oil perfumes are usually just dabbed on on pulse points or applied with a roll-on applicator. Alcohol-based perfumes tend to have a spray top instead. Some people may not like having to wash their hands after dabbing on oil perfume, especially if they are used to just spritzing some on. It’s a matter of personal preference and habit, but switching to oil perfumes may require an adjustment.
Top notes in oil and alcohol
So are there any ways in which alcohol-based perfumes outperform oil fragrances? Although opinions are divided on this, I think that top notes tend to come through brighter and clearer in alcohol. Oil makes the top notes appear somewhat denser. Generally speaking, oil perfumes tend to sit closer to the skin of the wearer. Only those who come in close contact with you will be able to smell it. To me, that makes the relationship more intimate. It’s as though you have a cool secret you’re not going to share with just anyone. That alone is what makes me like oil perfumes so much.
Do you have a preference when it comes to oil perfumes vs alcohol-based perfumes?
I personally don’t look upon companies that make (often flawed or simply incorrect) criticism of competitor’s products too favourably.
Personally I don’t find alcohol based perfumes – in general – harsh ‘initially’. I suppose it depends on what you mean by ‘initially’. 2 seconds? 5 seconds? ten seconds? Also I suppose it depends on the (quality of) perfume you’re buying…
Personally I find oil based perfume doesn’t develop much if at all. I enjoy alcohol based fragrance specifically for the evolution of the fragrance over time.
Fixatives. You say ‘synthetic and harmful’. Synthetic fragrance and fixatives are everywhere, especially in the US. Toilet cleaner, bleach, washing powder, I don’t know how many products contain ‘synthetic’ additives. Many fixatives in perfume are essential to the overall fragrance profile including the natural fixatives benzoin, labdanum, myrrh, olibanum, storax, tolu balsam, and animal based fixatives such as ambergris, castoreum, musk and civet. Just because it’s synthetic doesn’t make it harmful either, organisations such as IFRA monitor allergens and the EU banned so many potentially allergenic com[pounds in fragrance it is really stupid. Yet people still think nothing of pouring gallons of wine, beer and spirits into their bodies, they smoke, drink coffee and so on. Come on, lets be serious about how your fragrance exposes you to harmful chemicals, against all the other lifestyle choices you make.
Additional skincare benefits. Hmm…are you saying you apply your oil based perfume all over your body? If as you say later under ‘application’ you’re applying to pulse points with a roll on then any supposed skincare benefits are insignificant to the debate. Perhaps you’ll have slightly smoother wrists or parts of your neck will feel less dry?
Yes, it is difficult to ship alcohol based perfumes internationally. The reason for the sticker in the UK is because an increasing amount of mail is shipped by air, even on our ‘little’ island. Couriers will handle alcohol based perfume; I’ve bought from Europe, the USA and Canada without a problem (usually by DHL). If you’re making perfumes it’s a pain, if you’re wearing them it isn’t, unless you want that long discontinued fragrance that an ebay seller in a foreign country just happens to have.
Bottle size. Presentation is everything! I love great perfume bottles. Jean Paul Gaultier’s iconic torso bottles come to mind. I wish I’d bought the DK Fuel/Unleaded bottle before it was discontinued and prices skyrocketed, it looks like something out of Stargate. Salvador Dali’s perfume bottles, more recently Carolina Herrera’s Good Girl stiletto bottle and Kim Kardashian’s ‘Gaultier inspired’ bottle, they’re objects of desire in themselves. With the exception of some Arabian attars, oil based perfume lacks any visual or tactile wow factor.
Unless you want a fragrance that stays close to the skin, for work perhaps, alcohol based fragrance, in my opinion, outperforms oil or solid perfume in every way. However, instead of ‘slagging off’ all alcohol based fragrance, a tactic that I think is entirely counterproductive, why not highlight how oil based perfumes compliment existing alcohol based fragrance and suggest – such as I did with the example above – situations where you might consider using an oil based fragrance instead of your regular perfume. I’ll support the first company selling oil based perfume that doesn’t feel the need use incorrect, suspect or spurious arguments to tell us everything that’s wrong with alcohol based fragrance
Thank you for taking the time to comment, Steve! Clearly you love fragrances and are knowledgeable about them, and I welcome your input.
You are absolutely right that the added artificial scents are pretty much everywhere, from cleaning products to shampoo, candles, air fresheners and many other personal care items. Personally I never liked them and avoid them as much as possible.
While many people do indeed smoke and drink in addition to an already heavy toxic load on their bodies, that’s their choice. My customer base tends to be much more health-conscious, and what I view as my mission is to provide an alternative to mainstream perfumes and colognes. My choice was to create a product that would be different for those who are concerned with the effects of synthetic fragrances.
Speaking of alternatives, I have never actually considered big perfume houses ‘competition’. As far as I’m concerned, natural independent perfume making is a completely different discipline altogether. I’ve never felt as though I was part of the fragrance industry and have always tried to create something that hasn’t been done before. I stay true to myself and only work with natural plant-based ingredients in creating my perfumes. The attempt in this blog post was not to slag off big perfume houses, but rather, explain my approach and reasons for choosing to work with natural essential oils, resins and absolutes, rather than alcohol and artificial fragrance oils.
Overly impassioned – there’s nothing mean or offensive in this article. NOT everyone prefers conventional alcohol perfumes, and contrary to your accusations, the writer is stating the truth – it’s pure fact that alcohol evaporates faster than oil, and pure fact that alcohol based perfumes tend to a) contain a lot less of the valuable essence material and b) need a lot more fixatives, often synthetic rather than authentic essence, to compensate for the highly volatile quality of an alcohol medium. So there’s no point getting huffy and puffy over what’s pure science.
Further, Tanya did acknowledge that oil-based perfume is not for everyone, being very realistic that not everyone would feel it to be as practical or convenient as applying an alcohol perfume. As a perfumer she simply believes in the quality and benefits of her chosen medium – what’s wrong with that? Any businessperson would feel the same about their own products and market them in a way that communicates their plus points – get over it.
Hello Tanya,
I am so excited at how lucky I am to find a recent post on oil perfumes. Your post is really helpful and explains everything I need to know about oil perfume, I also do not think it was bias towards alcohol based perfume.
I am new in the perfume business myself and in my search for the more information on oil based perfumes and companies or producers that needs distributorship in my region. If you know any kindly mail me as I would love to be a distributor.
Good post for me.
Thank you.
I don’t think both will be the problem. every subtance (fragrance oil and Essential oil) has its owns characteristic on how you want your perfume to be. Either it s oil based, chemical free or whatsoever, even luxury perfume’s contains more than a hundred synthetic in it. Synthetic or not, it has reason for synthetic e.g we did not need to hunt animals just to obtain their oils. My understanding, if you want to make healthy perfume that brings benefits to mind and body, go for essential oils, If you want to make perfume just for EDP or any, you could use Synthetic one. No difference, talking about chemical as it be, even some essential oils is poisonous, we know the benefits but we did not know the side effects of it since it’s natural. and Synthetic is man made, yes, from chemical but less react for those who has problem with chemical’s within natural substances. So my point it is useless to debate between Synthetic and Essential oil because different oil produce different mission’s of it.
Everything about this thread was incredible. Thank you. Thank you for the original article, and thank you to the person who somehow took the article personally and but really brought up great facts so eloquently albeit snappy. Intelligent convo, great things to consider as I endeavor to gain knowledge on the topic. ❤️🙏
Hi,
Since longtime i am looking for such kind of article, and Very Well Explain Difference between work with oil base or alcohol based perfumes
This is very good articles and very informative,
Obtain information what i was looking for , i love to read more such kind of upcoming articles
Keep up the good work !!
Thanks
I am just starting on the journey of creating my own chemical free fragrances. I appreciate the information in this article. Could you please tell me which carrier oil you prefer? From everything I’m reading, most people seem to choose between jojoba or fractionated coconut oil. Which do you prefer? And, how long does it really need to set before using it? I’m so impatient I would want to use it right away! 😁
I strongly prefer fractionated coconut oil over jojoba for three reasons. Firstly, it doesn’t stain clothing, which is really important for me – I wouldn’t want my customers to ruin their clothes with my perfumes. Secondly, while jojoba oil is yellow, fractionated coconut oil is clear, which means it won’t alter the appearance of the fragrance. You can buy clear jojoba oil but that means it has been bleached. Third reason is that fractionated coconut oil is much cheaper than jojoba – not my main consideration, but an important factor nonetheless.
I would advise you to allow your creations to sit for at least three days to preferably a week. You’ll be doing yourself a disservice by using it too soon, as you simply won’t get the true character of the scent so soon after blending. The notes really do marry together and change noticeably with time. Best of luck with your experiments and have fun!
Thank you! I really appreciate the information.
Hi Tanya
Great Post 😊
I’m only new to Perfumery and curious to grow more .
You mentioned above about using oil based carriers and aromatic compounds can be 20% or more.
Can I presume that if you used a carrier oil such as Rosehip Oil, which would be far greater for the skin. That if one was to use an Aroma Accord or Aroma Chemicals with the Rosehip base you could use 20+% of aromatic compounds?
And if so what would the maximum usage % be ? 30-50% .
Thank you in advance
Look forward to your reply
Trevor .
I don’t work with aroma accords or chemicals – I suppose you mean synthetic aromas by them? – so I really cannot comment as it’s not my area of expertise. The maximum concentration cut-off percentage is largely due to the fact that essential oils and absolutes are powerful substances and can cause skin irritation. The type of carrier oil doesn’t affect that. The highest possible percentage varies from one natural material to another, so it will depend on your formula.
Rosehip oil does have wonderful properties but they are best reserved for skincare. What we need in a carrier oil used as a base for natural perfume is the absence of its own odour, colourlessness, long shelf life and that “dry touch” feel so as to not stain the clothing. I use rosehip oil for other things, such as a facial oil or in my Rosehip and Oats facial soap but I would never use it as a perfume base.
Thank you so much for your reply Tania, it’s well received and understood.
I’ve also read that Isopropyl Myristate IPM can be used as a carrier oil .
Have you had any experience with this .
Thank you again .
Trevor
Glad I could help, Trevor! Isopropyl Myristate is not an oil, so it can’t be used “as a carrier oil”. It is a solvent, and certainly can be used as a perfume base but I don’t work with it personally.
my perfume oil has this as ingredients:
free of alcohol
Synthetic essential oil
essential oil
My question is this what you are talking about is this perfume oil i have the one you mentioned in your article is it natural or hybrid perfume?
First of all, it seems to me that there is some confusion here as to what an essential oil actually is. You can only refer to something as an essential oil if it is a natural substance obtained from a plant by means of steam distillation. If it is synthetic, it is a fragrance oil, not a “synthetic essential oil”.
So, if you’re using both natural (essential) oils AND synthetic (fragrance) oils then yes, your perfume would be a hybrid.
Also, you absolutely can make a natural perfume with an alcohol base, and alcohol-free does not automatically mean natural. It simply means alcohol-free.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Hi. I really enjoyed this article.i personaly am very thankfull for your insight. Im going to give it a try
Hi thank you for a very informative post and interesting
blog.
I was searching for info on oils that are safe to send via post nationally and internationally and found myself here.
Do you know of a source online that mentions that FCO is non-flammable?
I want to send some through the post but I worry that when I tell the staff it’s a fragranced oil they’ll not know this is non flammable.
Carole Molina-Taylor
January 25, 2021
Hi Tanya,
I am just starting this journey of researching and educating myself on perfume making using a still for extraction. I am trying to learn as much as I can. Where I am getting confused is how to tell how much of a carrier oil to use per perfume blend/recipe. I plan on I using fractional coconut oil, Jojoba oil. Can you give some guidance on that? Also, if I have a recipe that calls for alcohol, how do I figure out how much carrier oil use in place of the alcohol? Thank you for your time and any knowledge you can share with me.
A good rule of thumb is to use a 33% concentration of your aromatic materials to 66% of carrier oil as your starting point. Go from there adjusting as you need for the desired strength. How much alcohol a formulation calls for is not relevant since it’s not a one-to-one substitution and there is no quick and easy rule as to what the ration should be, anyway.
I am just starting this journey of researching and educating myself on perfume making using a still for extraction. I am trying to learn as much as I can. Where I am getting confused is how to tell how much of a carrier oil to use per perfume blend/recipe. I plan on I using fractional coconut oil, Jojoba oil. Can you give some guidance on that? Also, if I have a recipe that calls for alcohol, how do I figure out how much carrier oil use in place of the alcohol? Thank you for your time and any knowledge you can share with me.
Hi, thank you for this post. I would like to know if there is different strengths of oil based perfume as in alcohol based perfume which is easy to distinguish like eau de parfum, eau de cologne, eau de toilette etc. How do you determine what strength of oil based perfume you are purchasing if it contains for example jojobo oil carrier mixed with what % aromatics oils?
I’m wondering if oil base cologne and original alcohol cologne keep the same scent? if i buy aventus oil and aventus regular cologne will i get the same scent?
Thanks
The scent itself should be the same. However, because the medium (oil vs alcohol) is different, it may open up at a different speed. You may notice different notes more/less prominently, that they dissipate at different speeds or that the scent ‘sits closer’ to your skin – as in, the sillage may also be different. I have no direct experience of the Aventus by Creed; it’s something you’ll have to discover on your own.
There is no correct or incorrect answer to this question because it is merely a personal preference. A perfume based on alcohol will have a stronger and more potent scent. Oil-based perfumes, on the other hand, will last longer on your skin and have a more accurate scent that will unfold like a flower.
Could you pl explain how to preserve perfumes made by essential oils and fraction coconut oil as alcohol has the advantage of never getting spoilt and also preserving whatever is added to it? This is the major drawback I feel oil based perfumes have and I wonder if you can help me with this.
Thanks
I would also love to know this!